When I looked at the distances I have travelled I really thought that it was time to slow down a bit. I enjoyed driving around this area but today I decided a beach day was in order. I was at the sea for heaven sake! It was time to explore and take some time out for beach combing and just sitting and enjoying the atmosphere.
I had read and heard that the beach at Escuminac was awesome and somewhere to head to.
Travel books and tourist guides are only as good as the people that write in them and I'm finding that they're not always as "lovely and pristine" as they say.
Using my nav system to follow the road and a map to plan my route I found the little fishing hamlet of Escuminac and the campsite and beach. For a $4.00 day fee I enjoyed a beautiful stretch of beach on the Northhumberland Strait. Something I've been waiting for!
The beach is "raked" each morning and there are "washing stations" (to get the salt off before changing) and little change huts. Very neat. There are also washroom and a canteen (tuck shop). So well worth the fee. They also have lobster dinners on the beach if enough people sign up. As I was continuing on my way south I declined that and figured I would have lots of chance for that.
I hit the beach first for a long walk. I wanted to check out what washes up on their beaches. I know what comes up on Lake Huron's shores.
The beach was covered with mussel shells. Not the kind I'm used to. The kind you eat! They were very big and made me think of when I order mussels in a restaurant only these shells are just washing up.
This area is known for it's peat moss farms. There is one just outside of the town. I think the peat moss that's on my lawn at the cottage came from here. The dunes are all peat and they are really, really tall. Especially at low tide which it was while I was walking along. The peat changes the colour of the water to a coffee coloured flow and the dunes stick out into the sea and the waves give a slapping sound when they hit the spongy masses.
It was fun to walk along the shores and pick through the seaweed and shells and lobster pot left overs. The high tide must have been over night because there were lots of things at the high water mark. There were a few beat up lobster pots on the shore and they reall were mangled. Made me think how powerful the waves could be in this area, they weren't today though, thankfully.
Lobster pot ID against a peat dune along Escuminac Beach Northumberland Strait, New Brunswick
Growing up swimming in great lakes I'm a strong swimmer and don't worry about things sneaking up and getting me. We don't have things like that. Here, there are jellyfish! Jelly fish are weird looking. Jelly fish, especially the Lion Mane Jelly Fish, can sting you. EEEEKKK I don't think I want to be stung. I found out from the folks in the canteen here that the red jelly fish are fine to touch on the top of them but don't come in contact with the tentacles. They can be very long and can getcha. EWWWW. I was certainly on the lookout for the red, bloom looking Lion Mane jelly fish where ever I went. The sting isn't really bad if you get one, more like a bee sting and if you do get one you should rub the area with sand or a rough towel. There are little barbs that stick into you and give you the pain. The sand helps get rid of it all.
I'm not finding out.
With the warm weather and water there have been a few more jellies coming into shore and you only need to be vigilant to them. I was, let me tell you and I didn't have any problems.
3 hours at the beach, enjoying the sand, surf, people watching and sun it was time to head out to find my accommodations. I was a little nervous about it as it just didn't sound great but I figured I could cope.
After a very nice drive along some really nifty roads I found the Kouchibouguac Resort. Well, it's not a resort. Maybe it was in it's day but not now. As I drove in and saw only 1 vehicle there, by the office I could hear the Bates Motel theme running through my head. "Here we go" I thought.
The owner is Austrian (everyone is bilingual in Acadia) and very nice. I saw only 3 keys on the side counter. As I noted that there wasn't another car in the whole complex I asked where everyone was. The owner said they were probably still at the beach. Hmmm we'll see.
The "lounge" area had some sheets thrown over the chairs and there wasn't a light on. Not welcoming really. So I took a breath, paid my bill in cash, took my key and was recommended to a restaurant in the town that specialized in seafood pizza. Well that was a bright spot!
The room was very basic and Mike Holmes would have a renovating fit if he ever got near it( which I doubt would ever happen I can't see this place being open for much longer.)
The whole place just made me laugh. After checking everything out and seeing it was okay or at least passable I headed into St. Louis de Kent where the restaurant was.
The recommendation was an awesome one. The seafood pizza had huge scallops, shrimps and a liberal amount of lobster meat on it. So yummy! I had to wash it down with a couple of Alexander Keiths.
All in all a good night and again I notice that there is a real lack of people around. There were only 3 other cars in the "resort" when I called it a night and it certainly was quiet. This area is for fishing and logging and really I think the economy has truly made a difference here. Acadian people are proud to be here and do what they do, tourism isn't high on their list. That's okay, I'm enjoying it.
Fisherman memorial in Escuminac for those lost in the great storm of June 20,
1959. Every family in the area lost someone. The harbour is in the background.
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