Right, the air this morning was pretty heavy.
Really heavy.
Actually thick fog had come in and the whole area. This is what Cape Breton is supposed to look like, or so I'm told.
I packed up my things and re-organized the bags I had. I was moving out of my room and into the next one later today as I had asked to stay another night and it was probable I'd move to another room. No problem. I was prepared. I could leave all my luggage for the staff to move to the new room but figured it would make Thursday an early start with minimal running around.
Again, I can't say enough about the staff here, they are so wonderful. Sometimes they remember what I've been doing the day before and ask. They are great!
Last night, after I posted, I hung around in the Highland lounge and listened to the entertainer. Seems live music here is something that is a drawing card if you want to stay anywhere. Fran Doyle was an experienced guitar player who put his own spin on all the east coast favourites that you'd expect to hear while in Cape Breton. He had a great rapport with everyone and always asked where everyone was from when they came in the room. It was loads of fun and I met a couple who were from the south shore of the province and we had a great time singing along. Okay there were some beverages consumed too! The nights here end early with Fran finishing up around 10:30 pm! I guess they know that most folks are up and running around early in the morning.
With the fog this morning I figured I would stick to the plan I had regardless.
There is freshwater lake that's been created by millions and millions of cobblestones that the waves and tides have deposited closing off what was once a bay. It is fascinating! The piles of stones are 12 feet high in places and this has taken 100's of years to complete by just the sea action.
Pretty soaked or at least my legs were from walking in the heavy drizzle I headed back to the car and decided to head north up the coast to Neil's Harbour.
As I drove, in typical seaside fashion, the weather changed about 3 times in the 20 minute drive. The temperature guage on the dashboard said it was 14 degrees out! Holy cow that's certainly a switch from what we've had! The drizzle mostly gone but the fog was around here and there so I took a side route up to a spit of land to check it out. Again, really lovely scenery and so ocean side. Rock, trees and the pounding waves. Very neat.
Neil's Harbour is known for it's Chowder House (as well as a working harbour for crab and lobster fishing) so it was time to check that out.
I have to wonder sometimes what folks do in this area when there aren't tourists or it's snowing. Again, other than the Chowder House there wasn't a soul to be seen. Weird.
Anyway, I wandered around the restaurant property in the drizzle (again) and took a picture of the shore that this little restaurant is perched. Literally. If the erosion continues to move in the direction it is there won't be a restaurant in a few years. When there's a big storm I betcha it's exciting in the place. Oh yeah, temperature outside 13!
I was not disappointed with my seafood chowder and my lobster wrap (natch!) and the restaurant is a quirky combo of take out and "find your own seat" type of place. You place your order and take a number on a stand to take to your table. The wait staff (all 50 something women) will bring you your courses. I was sitting out on the enclosed sunroom. Wish there was some sun but it was comfortable enough but I was bundled up pretty well.
The chowder was simply awesome! Every suggestion I had been given was right. Sweet and yummy, this was living. I enjoyed listening to a couple of other tables of people, one of obviously locals talking about boats and the work that has to be done and another table of visitors from the States. They were talking about how Canadians put vinegar on their fries. They seemed so convinced that this is the way that we eat our french fries. Interesting! I'm sure there are all sorts of things that they think Canadians do but I didn't want to intrude!
On the way home I stopped at a pull off for Black Creek. There are many pull offs at picturesque vistas but with the fog and drizzle there wasn't so much to see but this creek was neat. I did get a close up of the neat shores along the Atlantic coast.
Okay, I'm weird but I think that looks neat! Kind of surreal actually.
Arriving back at the Keltic lodge I found out that my room was not changed and I was in the same one I have had all along. No matter I happily took a few things in and flopped on the bed and cozied in for a nap. Nothing beats a nice fluffy duvet on a dark, rainy day, especially when I was feeling bone tired and a little chilled from my travels and walks on a damp Atlantic coastline.
Tomorrow I leave this little haven and head north to complete the loop of the Cabot Trail and the Cape Breton Highlands. I don't know what the weather will be but I will drive it regardless. Hopefully there will be some clear weather at some neat parts of the drive.
I don't have a place booked as yet but there are a number of possibilities especially in Baddeck which will leave a short drive to Halifax on Friday.
I have certainly enjoyed my respite here at the Keltic Lodge.
Time to hit the road again!
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