Well, as the song goes, my bags are packed. To bursting quite honestly! I hope Samsonite has done it's testing because I'm giving it a challenge with my things. Save for a couple of packages of snacks that I've become addicted to (tycinkys) and a few boxes and bags that would be only used for stuffing things. It's all in!
Vlasta and Mirek had arranged for a special present for me. A custom made marrionette! These stringed puppets are a tradition here in the Czech Republic and there are many theatres to their honour. To receive one is a thrill and this one is special because it is in the form of Svejk who is a funny character that travels the countryside and there is a story of his adventures about him that I have as well. Thankfully I had space for him in my bag!
I can't believe that the trip is over. I had so many thoughts and fears and worries and wonders and the list goes on for this trip. So many wonders have been answered and there are still so many questions but not nearly as many as when I arrived.
Martina, Vlasta and Mirek's daughter, translated Dad's last letter to his parents explaining why he was leaving Czechoslovakia. This letter is filled with anguish to not be hated by his parents for what he was doing versus the challenge of staying in a country that he felt had given up on him. I got the sense that he was tired of the people and the work he had done for the Czech people. There was also mention of a time in jail! Also he did not want to leave his girlfriend behind when I read that part I was reminded how hard it would have been for him to really pack up and leave. He obviously spent many months considering his decision and he was torn between leaving and respect for his family. A major challenge for a 24 year old, any 24 year old regardless of the era.
I have enjoyed today just watching the Royal Wedding and having some quiet time looking through all my things before packing them away. It has reminded me how generous all the people here have been, whether tour guides providing English translations for me to the family just being my family and enjoying being "a cousin".
When I get back to Canada and realize more and more what is so different about a post Communist society in an ancient city I will reflect on it in the Blog. There is so much that I've learned in school about what life is like in different places but to live here for over 2 weeks and see the effects of what it meant to and still means to these people to be democratic is something that can only be understood when experienced.
Tomorrow I head to watch, briefly, Honza's soccer match then to the airport for my flight to Frankfurt then my further flight to Toronto. It will be a long day but one where I can continue to reflect and remember what an incredible gift I was given to be able to travel in this way and time.
Until I reach you all from Canada.
Dobry Den (good day)
Friday, April 29, 2011
A Clock, a patio and a family dinner
Today is a day I actually got moving and out of the apartment early and down to the Old Town square to see the Astronomical Clock chime in the hour. If you are a visitor to Prague you HAVE to see this very interesting event. It's not something that is a long process or something that is awe inspiring. It's just something that has been going on for centuries and it's fun to watch.
The clock is chimed by a skeleton which is pulling a bell, there are two doors that open up above the clock and the 12 apostles peek out before turning away then a gold rooster crows to finish the show. At the top of the clock tower there is a trumpeter who sends a fanfare across the Old Town Square! There are hundreds of people who turn out for this hourly event. The other day when I had been here it was unbelievable the number of people crowded around so I decided an early start was in order.
After witnessing that and really enjoying the show and the people too I headed off to be a tourist again.
I had one more place on my "to do" list and that was Jewish Town. This ancient area is not only a functioning worship space but also a permanent museum to Czech Jews. This population did not escape any persecution by the German regime. The synagogues, the museum pieces and the cemetaries that were kept, actually by the Germans to be used as historical pieces to be displayed as "part of a decimated race". That piece of information floored me and to be witness to the items that were to be an example of people that would no longer exist was really quite overwhelming. The synagogues were beautiful and ancient and you could FEEL the history.
The cemetary was again, something interesting and ancient. There were stones there from the 1400's! Yikes! There were small prayers on paper stuffed in nooks and crannies of these stones and it added to the mystery of the visit.
Steeped in history I was looking for somewhere for lunch. In this town that is never a problem! It'd deciding what to have. I had on my list to sit on a outdoor patio and enjoy a beverage and/or lunch too! I found a small spot just off of the Old Town Square that was perfect. Lots of people watching, lots of sun and comfy chairs. So another thing off the list to have done! I enjoyed my meal (stone fired pizza!) and pivo!
Fortified I headed off to take some more pictures wander around and enjoy the city for the last time as I had finished my touring of this ancient and beautiful European centre of history.
I ended up near the bridge that I first witnessed when I was driven to Prague over 2 weeks ago. I can't believe it's been that long! I took more pictures and then found that the tram that will take me to the bottom of the hill to the apartment. It was a great ride! My feet were a little worn out!
My touring done I was happy to have a little while to regroup after all I had seen.
Tonight was the family dinner, organized due to the plans of others who have cycling trips, spa trips to Hungary or cottage trips on the weekend. It was a chance to see everyone in one place. The "club" as the family calls it is a lovely meeting, dinner and social place. A lovely spot to be and enjoy time with family.
I had my computer with me and we showed the pictures I had taken on a big screen they had there, it was fun!
Tomorrow is the royal wedding and an attempt to pack all my things!
Here is a family photo from the dinner! What a great conclusion to a great trip!
The clock is chimed by a skeleton which is pulling a bell, there are two doors that open up above the clock and the 12 apostles peek out before turning away then a gold rooster crows to finish the show. At the top of the clock tower there is a trumpeter who sends a fanfare across the Old Town Square! There are hundreds of people who turn out for this hourly event. The other day when I had been here it was unbelievable the number of people crowded around so I decided an early start was in order.
After witnessing that and really enjoying the show and the people too I headed off to be a tourist again.
I had one more place on my "to do" list and that was Jewish Town. This ancient area is not only a functioning worship space but also a permanent museum to Czech Jews. This population did not escape any persecution by the German regime. The synagogues, the museum pieces and the cemetaries that were kept, actually by the Germans to be used as historical pieces to be displayed as "part of a decimated race". That piece of information floored me and to be witness to the items that were to be an example of people that would no longer exist was really quite overwhelming. The synagogues were beautiful and ancient and you could FEEL the history.
The cemetary was again, something interesting and ancient. There were stones there from the 1400's! Yikes! There were small prayers on paper stuffed in nooks and crannies of these stones and it added to the mystery of the visit.
Fortified I headed off to take some more pictures wander around and enjoy the city for the last time as I had finished my touring of this ancient and beautiful European centre of history.
I ended up near the bridge that I first witnessed when I was driven to Prague over 2 weeks ago. I can't believe it's been that long! I took more pictures and then found that the tram that will take me to the bottom of the hill to the apartment. It was a great ride! My feet were a little worn out!
Tonight was the family dinner, organized due to the plans of others who have cycling trips, spa trips to Hungary or cottage trips on the weekend. It was a chance to see everyone in one place. The "club" as the family calls it is a lovely meeting, dinner and social place. A lovely spot to be and enjoy time with family.
I had my computer with me and we showed the pictures I had taken on a big screen they had there, it was fun!
Tomorrow is the royal wedding and an attempt to pack all my things!
Here is a family photo from the dinner! What a great conclusion to a great trip!
 |
| Kate and Honza, Martina and Kuba, Milena, Mirek and Vlasta, Petr, me, Tomas and Jana |
Thursday, April 28, 2011
Day 14-Czech Military Institute and Wenceslas Square
Today we had the priviledge of visiting the Czech museum of Military history. Vlasta had written the minister of Defence to tell him that a daughter of a decorated Czech military person was coming to Prague. I was blown away that she had done this! She did not receive a reply from him but from the director of the Military Institute that comes under the Minister's duristiction. The gentleman there was most eager to show us the display that they have set up there indicating life and the military uprising during the years 1941 to 1945. It was one of the most detailed and comprehensive displays that I have ever seen in my life.
What I did learn is that Dad's work with the Czech radio was integral in the communication between the Czech people and the outside world. The Germans were cutting Prague off from all other countries. It was his ability to transfer information gained on the street to the authorities in England that was so important. With a team of fellows with him (many of them fellow Scouts) they switched uniforms, sought out intelligence and learned how the Germans were going to move around the city. I was in awe of the work that he had done for the sake of Czechoslovakia. He loved his country. That's what makes it all the more incredible that he, and all the rest of the group, left.
At the conclusion of the visit Jindrich Marek presented me with a book (in English) that explained the situation that led to the beginning of the Prague people taking up arms and the beginning of the resistance. It is a treasure to me.
After the visit Vlasta dropped me off at the top of Wenceslas square. I was in tourist mode and was going to go to all the stands, shops and places that I hadn't had a chance to in my previous tours. It was great! Lots of people and many things to look at. I had a blast.
I decided to head to the Old Town Square to see the Astronomical Clock as I had not yet witnessed it's "show" at each hour, it was under repair when Lucie and I had out tour over a week ago. Well, there must have been a gazillion people there and I couldn't get close. Forget that try, tomorrow I will come early in the morning!
Taking side streets I headed away from the Old Town and followed the streets to where ever they would take me. At one point I stopped to consult my map and some people asked, slowly, if I spoke English! I replied that I did and they seemed relieved. They were 2 English and one New Zealander and they were all turned around and lost, even with a map. They wanted to get to Charles bridge and since I had been there a couple of times I knew where to go. So off we went. They were very happy to find it and they thanked me. I figured since I was here I'd head over it again. Always a good time to be a tourist, especially when the weather is perfect, I enjoyed my walk. I stopped to listen to the Dixieland Jazz band on the bridge for a while. It was great just hanging out listening to tunes! I had the chance to walk under the bridge and took some pictures from there. Just a different view!
Now hungry I headed over the bridge ad back through Na Kampe. When I stopped at a bench to rest my feet I found, or they found me, my English/NZ group. We laughed about finding each other again. I suggested Cafe Savoy for some nice pastries for lunch and they thought it was a good idea. So a nice (expensive) visit to a lovely cafe (espresso was to DIE for) I headed back to the other side of the river. A nice afternoon and yummy food to fuel me I set off, walking, for home.
The Vltava river is home to hundreds of swans. I've never seen so many in my life in one place. It was terrific to see so many of them.
After an hour or so of wandering I was at the bottom of the hill to head up to the apartment of Vlasta and Mirek's. Phew, I made it! Legs very tired I got home to rest and reflect on my day!
Tomorrow out early for clock viewing!
What I did learn is that Dad's work with the Czech radio was integral in the communication between the Czech people and the outside world. The Germans were cutting Prague off from all other countries. It was his ability to transfer information gained on the street to the authorities in England that was so important. With a team of fellows with him (many of them fellow Scouts) they switched uniforms, sought out intelligence and learned how the Germans were going to move around the city. I was in awe of the work that he had done for the sake of Czechoslovakia. He loved his country. That's what makes it all the more incredible that he, and all the rest of the group, left.
After the visit Vlasta dropped me off at the top of Wenceslas square. I was in tourist mode and was going to go to all the stands, shops and places that I hadn't had a chance to in my previous tours. It was great! Lots of people and many things to look at. I had a blast.
I decided to head to the Old Town Square to see the Astronomical Clock as I had not yet witnessed it's "show" at each hour, it was under repair when Lucie and I had out tour over a week ago. Well, there must have been a gazillion people there and I couldn't get close. Forget that try, tomorrow I will come early in the morning!
Taking side streets I headed away from the Old Town and followed the streets to where ever they would take me. At one point I stopped to consult my map and some people asked, slowly, if I spoke English! I replied that I did and they seemed relieved. They were 2 English and one New Zealander and they were all turned around and lost, even with a map. They wanted to get to Charles bridge and since I had been there a couple of times I knew where to go. So off we went. They were very happy to find it and they thanked me. I figured since I was here I'd head over it again. Always a good time to be a tourist, especially when the weather is perfect, I enjoyed my walk. I stopped to listen to the Dixieland Jazz band on the bridge for a while. It was great just hanging out listening to tunes! I had the chance to walk under the bridge and took some pictures from there. Just a different view!
Now hungry I headed over the bridge ad back through Na Kampe. When I stopped at a bench to rest my feet I found, or they found me, my English/NZ group. We laughed about finding each other again. I suggested Cafe Savoy for some nice pastries for lunch and they thought it was a good idea. So a nice (expensive) visit to a lovely cafe (espresso was to DIE for) I headed back to the other side of the river. A nice afternoon and yummy food to fuel me I set off, walking, for home.
The Vltava river is home to hundreds of swans. I've never seen so many in my life in one place. It was terrific to see so many of them.
After an hour or so of wandering I was at the bottom of the hill to head up to the apartment of Vlasta and Mirek's. Phew, I made it! Legs very tired I got home to rest and reflect on my day!
Tomorrow out early for clock viewing!
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Down by the River Vltava
On Tuesday April 26th I had a free day.
What that means is I had no pressing meetings, tours or travels planned.
I had home work to do!
Over 200 pictures to review, re name, re orient and a bunch of blogging to do.
This day the weather had finally turned from early summer weather to typical Prague spring.
Cloudy, passing shower and a little breezy.
I worked away all morning and due to the technology that everyone seems to possess here I was tracked by Vlasta and Mirek via Skype! Vlasta saw that I was on line when she was a work and began to worry that I wasn't going out touring! I told her I has so much work to do! We had fun chatting away for a bit then I realized I had to go out for a bit!
I have made a short list of thing "still to do while in Prague" and one of them was to go to the river (about a kilometre walk from the apartment) and just sit and watch the wild life, the rowers and life around me. So, I did!
Camera strapped over me and bus pass in hand (it's a steep walk back up, I'm finding the hills challenging sometimes when the weather is bad) I set off to see what I would see.
After a brief shower I found a nice spot in front of the rowing club and watched the folks be put through their paces. It was fascinating! All forms of rowing was being trained this afternoon. The sun was out and between the barking of the coaches to their charges it was lovely! Single sculls, doubles, kayakers, canoists, double canoists were doing their best to match the desires of their coaches. The coaches were in little motor boats following beside them giving corrections or even one was on the shore near me speaking into a walky-talky to the two ladies rowing away in the water. I enjoyed it a lot.
I left there and walked along the river bank closer to Prague centre and past the Prague Yacht club which looked like any other club in the world. There was an instructor preparing young teen agers to sail in these little tiny sail boats. They were about half the size of a Lazer type boat that we have in Ontario. They were perfect for the river and so cute to watch.
With time elapsing I jumped on a tram then took a bus up the hill to the apartment. As I arrived Vlasta was arriving home from work. I called to her and she was looking all around to try and find where her name was coming from! I had a great walk and look about. One more thing off my list to do.
Mirek and I went shopping after he came home from work. Grocery stores have always intrigued me (guess it's genetic) and I loved wandering around looking at what was new and different and what was the same as in Canada. Due to the diet of the Czech people the busiest aisles were the meat the cheese sections. I have never seen so many different types of dairy products in my life. You name it it's there. With different flavours to go with any palate. The meet aisle was no less different. I had to ask Mirek what some of it was as I had NO idea what kind of meat it was. Nearly all smoked meat of various divisions. Not surprisingly there was little in the "snack" aisle. Seems that's not a big thing here. Sure there are chips and things but nothing like what we have in Canada. Interesting! I did find my Tycinky! 4 different flavours. These are like little thin pretzels or bread sticks and I'm addicted to them. Hmmm maybe I'll be able to fit them into my luggage going home. At all grocery stores you can get EVERYTHING. There is no running to other stores to get something you've missed. One stop shopping. Prices are quite comparable to Canada, especially when it comes to cheese and meat. Oh yes and there is every type of dumpling known to man that you can buy! Yum!!!
After a lovely dinner I began to think of packing the most delicate things I have purchased, namely my Czech easter eggs. So I filled one beer glass with one with lots of packing and put 2 others in one of my hiking boots, all wrapped in bubble wrap and another in a mug I received in Semily. There! Done! The other fragile things are packed already by the place that I bought them in and I don't think there will be much problem. If there is, there is. I can only try. I don't know how the things I have will fit in but I know I'll give it a try! I still have some more shopping to do!
So, that was my quiet day.
Tomorrow it's out and about again. I believe it will be a visit to a Military Institute to visit with the curator and then in the afternoon back down to St. Wenceslas square!
What that means is I had no pressing meetings, tours or travels planned.
I had home work to do!
Over 200 pictures to review, re name, re orient and a bunch of blogging to do.
This day the weather had finally turned from early summer weather to typical Prague spring.
Cloudy, passing shower and a little breezy.
I worked away all morning and due to the technology that everyone seems to possess here I was tracked by Vlasta and Mirek via Skype! Vlasta saw that I was on line when she was a work and began to worry that I wasn't going out touring! I told her I has so much work to do! We had fun chatting away for a bit then I realized I had to go out for a bit!
I have made a short list of thing "still to do while in Prague" and one of them was to go to the river (about a kilometre walk from the apartment) and just sit and watch the wild life, the rowers and life around me. So, I did!
Camera strapped over me and bus pass in hand (it's a steep walk back up, I'm finding the hills challenging sometimes when the weather is bad) I set off to see what I would see.
After a brief shower I found a nice spot in front of the rowing club and watched the folks be put through their paces. It was fascinating! All forms of rowing was being trained this afternoon. The sun was out and between the barking of the coaches to their charges it was lovely! Single sculls, doubles, kayakers, canoists, double canoists were doing their best to match the desires of their coaches. The coaches were in little motor boats following beside them giving corrections or even one was on the shore near me speaking into a walky-talky to the two ladies rowing away in the water. I enjoyed it a lot.
I left there and walked along the river bank closer to Prague centre and past the Prague Yacht club which looked like any other club in the world. There was an instructor preparing young teen agers to sail in these little tiny sail boats. They were about half the size of a Lazer type boat that we have in Ontario. They were perfect for the river and so cute to watch.
With time elapsing I jumped on a tram then took a bus up the hill to the apartment. As I arrived Vlasta was arriving home from work. I called to her and she was looking all around to try and find where her name was coming from! I had a great walk and look about. One more thing off my list to do.
Mirek and I went shopping after he came home from work. Grocery stores have always intrigued me (guess it's genetic) and I loved wandering around looking at what was new and different and what was the same as in Canada. Due to the diet of the Czech people the busiest aisles were the meat the cheese sections. I have never seen so many different types of dairy products in my life. You name it it's there. With different flavours to go with any palate. The meet aisle was no less different. I had to ask Mirek what some of it was as I had NO idea what kind of meat it was. Nearly all smoked meat of various divisions. Not surprisingly there was little in the "snack" aisle. Seems that's not a big thing here. Sure there are chips and things but nothing like what we have in Canada. Interesting! I did find my Tycinky! 4 different flavours. These are like little thin pretzels or bread sticks and I'm addicted to them. Hmmm maybe I'll be able to fit them into my luggage going home. At all grocery stores you can get EVERYTHING. There is no running to other stores to get something you've missed. One stop shopping. Prices are quite comparable to Canada, especially when it comes to cheese and meat. Oh yes and there is every type of dumpling known to man that you can buy! Yum!!!
After a lovely dinner I began to think of packing the most delicate things I have purchased, namely my Czech easter eggs. So I filled one beer glass with one with lots of packing and put 2 others in one of my hiking boots, all wrapped in bubble wrap and another in a mug I received in Semily. There! Done! The other fragile things are packed already by the place that I bought them in and I don't think there will be much problem. If there is, there is. I can only try. I don't know how the things I have will fit in but I know I'll give it a try! I still have some more shopping to do!
So, that was my quiet day.
Tomorrow it's out and about again. I believe it will be a visit to a Military Institute to visit with the curator and then in the afternoon back down to St. Wenceslas square!
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
South Bohemia Part 3- Easter Monday
Easter Monday is a state holiday in the Czech Republic and there are lots of things still to do as the touristy areas are still quite busy and only a few things are closed. Similar to our Good Friday in Canada.
The cuck-oo bird was out again at 5 am and it was so cold you could see your breath but I was all snuggled in the sleeping bag and bivouac bag. Good to snooze a bit longer. I slept on the veranda due to the threat of rain but could still see the stars, breathe the fresh air and totally enjoy my time at the cottage. Once I was up I did the good Girl Guide thing and aired my sleeping bag and put my bedding out in the sun to warm. That is something that you see a lot here in the Czech Republic, when it is warm outside and the sun is out the windows open wide to have the bedding hung out. Comforter first then pillows on top. It's the same everywhere! The windows open here in two ways, in, like a normal door or window and only from the top, leaning in. Very neat. Again, with no screens it makes it quite easy to do the airing.
We had breakfast at the table by the lake bed in the sunshine and it was lovely. This usually consists of tea, bread, smoked meat of some type, some cheese, cream cheese and butter too. There are vegetables cut up as well. This is easy to prepare and makes it easy for everyone to enjoy what they like. I haven't had an egg since I arrived! I don't miss it as there is lots of protein else where!
We packed up the cottage and headed off to Cesky Krumlov. This town is dominated by a huge castle that was once home to the Rozenbergs, then Eggenbergs, then the Schwarzenbergs. It was tremendous! Words cannot describe how huge it was and how beautiful it was. Really something to behold. The views were fantastic and I took many pictures of the area, the buildings and the sights.
Bears guarding the moat at Cesky Krumlov
View of Vltava river from Garden Courtyard of Cesky Krumlov
The cuck-oo bird was out again at 5 am and it was so cold you could see your breath but I was all snuggled in the sleeping bag and bivouac bag. Good to snooze a bit longer. I slept on the veranda due to the threat of rain but could still see the stars, breathe the fresh air and totally enjoy my time at the cottage. Once I was up I did the good Girl Guide thing and aired my sleeping bag and put my bedding out in the sun to warm. That is something that you see a lot here in the Czech Republic, when it is warm outside and the sun is out the windows open wide to have the bedding hung out. Comforter first then pillows on top. It's the same everywhere! The windows open here in two ways, in, like a normal door or window and only from the top, leaning in. Very neat. Again, with no screens it makes it quite easy to do the airing.
We had breakfast at the table by the lake bed in the sunshine and it was lovely. This usually consists of tea, bread, smoked meat of some type, some cheese, cream cheese and butter too. There are vegetables cut up as well. This is easy to prepare and makes it easy for everyone to enjoy what they like. I haven't had an egg since I arrived! I don't miss it as there is lots of protein else where!
We packed up the cottage and headed off to Cesky Krumlov. This town is dominated by a huge castle that was once home to the Rozenbergs, then Eggenbergs, then the Schwarzenbergs. It was tremendous! Words cannot describe how huge it was and how beautiful it was. Really something to behold. The views were fantastic and I took many pictures of the area, the buildings and the sights.
 |
| Cesky Krumlov with Vltava river beneath We wandered around the town, the old part, with winding streets and narrow lanes for a while and then headed to the town square. Not surprisingly on our travels we met a couple of Scout friends of Tomas'. Sometimes I end up doing the same thing. It was nice to see so many people from so many different countries. This one of the major tourist castles in the Czech Republic and it's no wonder why. Awesome. Tomas, Jana and I walked through the Castle and took pictures in the garden which I would love to know how they cut the hedges sooo perfectly. It was lovely and in the summer with the rose bushes blooming I bet it's even more beautiful.  |
In the parking lot of the castle I was looking at all the licence plates, Jana was helping me identify the countries. There were ones from every European country I think. It was fun to be part of such a historical place.
Our final stop on the tour was Zlata Koruna. This Monastary started in the 12th century was named "Gold Crown" for the wealth that it amassed from farming the area, trade and gifts. Though closed for the holiday we wandered around and I saw a lovely, quiet place that would have been perfect for the study of theology. Since this area is very much Catholic, as indicated by the personal shrines every were, roads, buildings, homes, this is one of the places it all centred on.
My brain, full of information, pictures, views and the rest of it we started the post holiday weekend trek to Prague. The traffic, not unlike anything in Ontario from Muskoka to Lake Huron to Toronto was slow. We made it in 3 hours or so. At times going no more than 10 kms an hour. I snoozed a bit and watched the rain clouds gather. It's the first rain I have seen since my arrival. Home to Vlasta and Mirek's apartment I tidied up, cleaned up and watched some TV to try and get caught up on sports and news.
I leave you all with some pictures....
South Bohemian town of Cesky Krumlov
South Bohemia Part 2
As the rain showers continue here and I have looked to my maps and pictures I am adding another post from the Easter weekend. So much happened and I know that there are some folks (especially here in Prague) that are most interested in what I write.
Sunday April 24th was, for me, the conclusion of a long quest. It was the time that I would find, see, and touch the lake that my father used as a means to escape the regime in 1948. It was the conclusion to many years of wonder, not only for me but for the whole family here as well. The stories that were told about Dad leaving were always incomplete and now, with research from Milena and translations by the whole family we have a pretty good idea of what happened and when with the descriptions from September 2-September 14, 1948. This diary, written by one of Dad's travelling companions, Zdenek Volek, is a very special and detailed account of what happened in those early days of travel to unknown possibilities.
I know that the family also has Dad's letter to his family that he wrote when he left, this he sent to them after he had gone. Milena has kept it all these years as she did Dad's helmet and medals.
This whole quest has been the work of so many people to make it happen. I can never begin to thank them enough for what they've done and just "thank you" seems so inadequate but it's all I have at the moment.
Near the Kuchar cottage is a town named Chlum U Trebone and there is a train station that is mentioned in the diary. The town now is a cross roads for cyclists travelling to different parts of south Bohemia, because there is a train station, small grocery store and is very flat it is a haven. We stopped at the train station and were lucky enough to have a train pull in, this is similar to what Dad would have done but without the fancy bicycles coming off of one car. From here we traveled to the town and saw a "castle" there. This building, now owned privately, is somewhat in disrepair but it is mentioned that Dad and his travelling companions met here.
The grounds are away from any sight lines of the town and would have been a good location to be in.
From there we took the road to Stankov a few kilometers away. This town has a large lake and it is here that he and his friends got a canoe and paddled across to the Austrian border.
This sounds very easy! But on the other side is a forest. A thick forest. A forest that you had to know where you were going to get through it. (They had a compass the diary states). This part of the area is either forest, field or water. From the account Dad had camped with Scouts in the area not too long before his escape. I wonder if he had "cased" the place to figure if this was a good place to cross the border.
The lake now, very quiet and serene, with only fishermen and women (though mostly men I note) enjoying an Easter Sunday afternoon in the sun. Tomas tells me that until the 1989 revolution there were still metal barracades in the middle of the lake to prevent passing over to Austian territory and the small road that we took to the forest was blocked from entry. It is something to know that even recently there were measures taken to keep Czech people in their own country.
We strolled along the shores of Lake Stankov where there is now a camp ground and from a point that after Tomas and I read and re read the diary figure might be the point where Dad took off from the shoreline I stopped and put my feet in the water and had some pictures taken with me with my hand in the water. This was something else. Very emotional for me and for the rest of the family too. This is (most likely) where he went in and paddled away.
The diary states they landed "at 4:45 pm, a few jumps and we disappeared in a thicket in Austria)"
Wow. What a dangerous thing to do! And they made it too. They had help from local people where ever they travelled. Sometimes it was challenging but they made it out.
I am so honoured to know of this tale now and SEE it with my own eyes.
Once I have received all the translations of various diaries and letters I will put it on the blog for everyone to read, right now it's in bits and pieces and I don't have it all electronically. The parts I have are so fascinating to read!
Tomas, Jana and I walked into the forest that Dad would landed in. Milena, being a trooper came part way then settled on a nice spot to wait for us as we trecked about 5 kilometers.
The forest was rimmed by the lake on one side and very tall trees on the other. A few kilometers in there was a marker. This very short, white indicator is the border between the Czech Republic and Austria! I had made it to another European country! How cool is that!
The marker with C on one side and an O (with two dots on the top of the O) is for Austria. From this point on every 50 meters or so there was another marker making no mistake that you were on the border. Tomas told me that before the Revolution in '89 you could camp and fish here but you MUST have proper documentation to say where you were from and the army checked quite frequently on you. We walked along and I imagined what it might have been like to have the adrenalin running as Dad escaped his home country.
Sunday April 24th was, for me, the conclusion of a long quest. It was the time that I would find, see, and touch the lake that my father used as a means to escape the regime in 1948. It was the conclusion to many years of wonder, not only for me but for the whole family here as well. The stories that were told about Dad leaving were always incomplete and now, with research from Milena and translations by the whole family we have a pretty good idea of what happened and when with the descriptions from September 2-September 14, 1948. This diary, written by one of Dad's travelling companions, Zdenek Volek, is a very special and detailed account of what happened in those early days of travel to unknown possibilities.
I know that the family also has Dad's letter to his family that he wrote when he left, this he sent to them after he had gone. Milena has kept it all these years as she did Dad's helmet and medals.
This whole quest has been the work of so many people to make it happen. I can never begin to thank them enough for what they've done and just "thank you" seems so inadequate but it's all I have at the moment.
Near the Kuchar cottage is a town named Chlum U Trebone and there is a train station that is mentioned in the diary. The town now is a cross roads for cyclists travelling to different parts of south Bohemia, because there is a train station, small grocery store and is very flat it is a haven. We stopped at the train station and were lucky enough to have a train pull in, this is similar to what Dad would have done but without the fancy bicycles coming off of one car. From here we traveled to the town and saw a "castle" there. This building, now owned privately, is somewhat in disrepair but it is mentioned that Dad and his travelling companions met here.
The grounds are away from any sight lines of the town and would have been a good location to be in.
From there we took the road to Stankov a few kilometers away. This town has a large lake and it is here that he and his friends got a canoe and paddled across to the Austrian border.
This sounds very easy! But on the other side is a forest. A thick forest. A forest that you had to know where you were going to get through it. (They had a compass the diary states). This part of the area is either forest, field or water. From the account Dad had camped with Scouts in the area not too long before his escape. I wonder if he had "cased" the place to figure if this was a good place to cross the border.
The lake now, very quiet and serene, with only fishermen and women (though mostly men I note) enjoying an Easter Sunday afternoon in the sun. Tomas tells me that until the 1989 revolution there were still metal barracades in the middle of the lake to prevent passing over to Austian territory and the small road that we took to the forest was blocked from entry. It is something to know that even recently there were measures taken to keep Czech people in their own country.
We strolled along the shores of Lake Stankov where there is now a camp ground and from a point that after Tomas and I read and re read the diary figure might be the point where Dad took off from the shoreline I stopped and put my feet in the water and had some pictures taken with me with my hand in the water. This was something else. Very emotional for me and for the rest of the family too. This is (most likely) where he went in and paddled away.
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| A Vejvara returns to Stankov lake 63 years later |
Wow. What a dangerous thing to do! And they made it too. They had help from local people where ever they travelled. Sometimes it was challenging but they made it out.
I am so honoured to know of this tale now and SEE it with my own eyes.
Once I have received all the translations of various diaries and letters I will put it on the blog for everyone to read, right now it's in bits and pieces and I don't have it all electronically. The parts I have are so fascinating to read!
Tomas, Jana and I walked into the forest that Dad would landed in. Milena, being a trooper came part way then settled on a nice spot to wait for us as we trecked about 5 kilometers.
The forest was rimmed by the lake on one side and very tall trees on the other. A few kilometers in there was a marker. This very short, white indicator is the border between the Czech Republic and Austria! I had made it to another European country! How cool is that!
The marker with C on one side and an O (with two dots on the top of the O) is for Austria. From this point on every 50 meters or so there was another marker making no mistake that you were on the border. Tomas told me that before the Revolution in '89 you could camp and fish here but you MUST have proper documentation to say where you were from and the army checked quite frequently on you. We walked along and I imagined what it might have been like to have the adrenalin running as Dad escaped his home country.
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| I'm in Austria! From this point on we walked in and out of Austria as the trail continued to wind it's way around the lake. The forest was beautiful and the trail nice to walk on. In parts the wild forest boars had dug up the ground to find roots and bulbs to eat. I wish I had seen one! Tomas told me they are well camouflaged and with us talking and making noise they would be hiding. Something we certainly don't have in Canada. At one point there was a sign which certainly reminded us where we were! |
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| Warning! State Border (with small marker) |
The historical part of our journey over we walked back to where Milena was waiting for us. I had so many thoughts going through my mind. Again, a truly emotional day.
Upon returning to the cottage it was time for a pivo and a snack. Then we were to go on a short bike ride but Tomas and Jana's son, Honza (John) and his girlfriend Kate arrived for early dinner. Honza is a "reconstructionist" or builder as they call them here and also plays for a division of the local soccer team as a goalie! Hey, I was a goalie too but when looking at Honza and how tall he is I know why I didn't go very far! Kate is an executive assistant in a lighting manufacturing company in Prague. They are both doing well and enjoy life as 30 something's in Prague. It is men Honza's age that have just missed the mandatory army service and I think the whole country has changed because of that and obviously from the Velvet Revolution.
Honza drives Tomas' old car. A Jag! Not just any Jag, a Jaguar station wagon. I've never seen such a thing and had to take a picture. I told him that a Jag in Canada is a big thing. He told me that his Dad's Volvo in Czech Republic is a big thing. I still thought it was pretty cool!
We enjoyed a lovely Easter BBQ chicken feast, lots of beverages and a traditional cake that Milena made in the shape of a Czech carp! I was to cut big slabs of it and we all ate it with "spray cream" as they call it. (Whipped cream in a can!) We ate outside at the table near the grill and then shared presents for Easter. I did not have anything to give but was told by me being there, that was present enough! Oh my!
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| Traditional Easter cake |
After a great meal, some good conversation and a lovely visit from Honza and Kate they departed back to a friends cottage they were staying at for the weekend.
One last picture and yes, I really did feel like a shrimp in the family, we called it a day.
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| Tomas Kuchar, Jana (behind me), me, Honza Kuchar and Milena Kucharova |
Days 10 South Bohemia visit Part 1
Hello all!
Let me tell you this blogging thing is like homework. I have to do the research (you should see the desk here with all the tourist guides on it) and the review and re labling of all the pictures (lost count how many) and the thoughts and things I'd like to say.
As I post this it is Tuesday April 26, 2011 at 12 noon Czech time. I have been reviewing the past few days for the past few hours. It's interesting to see what pictures I took and I am trying to keep the memories of what and why I took them so in years to come I won't go, "why did I take THAT?"
The weather is condusive for working away at all of this as it is much cooler than it's been and it's raining (finally) so my touristy type wanderings will have to wait until later in the day. Vlasta and Mirek are at work and I am happy taking some time alone to go over everything I've seen and done. There's been so much!
On Saturday the 23rd of April we left Prague for the of Budejovice (Bood-eh-yo-vich-eh). This is the birthplace of Budweiser beer. Though the beer is NOTHING like the Budwieser we know in Canada this is a clear lager with a little bit of bite to it. It is very good (okay, what beer really isn't good?) and it is sold everywhere and Tomas drinks the non alcoholic type when we are out as he is driving. Even that is very good too. This town is one of the centres of south Bohemia and has a fantastic town centre, exquisite architechture and NO people. Very strange. We were there on a Saturday of a major holiday and I thought there would be thousands of people. Nope. No one. Strange.
Tomas and I hiked up 255 steps to the top of the Black Tower (pictured above to the left side) and though it was a challenge (think very steep wooded steps) it was fantastic. The bells of the tower are RIGHT THERE (thankfully the clock bells are higher up) and it was quite a thrill to be touching distance to a bell founded in the 1600. The Tower was completed in 1577! What! Wow. I had to take a picture of the door with the year 1553 on it. That blew my mind.
Tomas and Jana were lovely hosts for the visit around and about South Bohemia. We drove past the nuclear plant that supplies 40% of power to the Czech Republic and I am still somewhat freaked out by the sight of the cooling towers. As there is no water here to cool the units (they have two) they use the cooling tower method. I guess with all the alarms of nuclear power and the challenges that have happened in the past when I see a picture like the one below it gives me the creeps. This facility is gigantic and can be seen for hundreds of kilometers away.
Our journey continued to the castle town of Trebon. This small town was founded in the mid 12th century! There is so much history here it is unbelievable. Sometimes my mind wanders to what it would have been like to be part of the "beginning" of such a small town. The town is a hub for visiting cyclists and there is a market in the square each weekend. As this area is known for it's lakes and canals that have fish in them, mainly Czech carp which I have heard is good eating. It is no wonder that Dad was disappointed to find out the huge carp we have in Lake Huron were no where near like this fish. Czech carp looks more like a small mouth bass and it is a very popular thing to go fishing here. Jana bought me a little carp ornament to commemorate my stay. There was so much to see. As this is an area that Dad competed in rowing as well Milena told me that when he and his squad won an important race they all jumped in the fountain pictured below.
Let me tell you this blogging thing is like homework. I have to do the research (you should see the desk here with all the tourist guides on it) and the review and re labling of all the pictures (lost count how many) and the thoughts and things I'd like to say.
As I post this it is Tuesday April 26, 2011 at 12 noon Czech time. I have been reviewing the past few days for the past few hours. It's interesting to see what pictures I took and I am trying to keep the memories of what and why I took them so in years to come I won't go, "why did I take THAT?"
The weather is condusive for working away at all of this as it is much cooler than it's been and it's raining (finally) so my touristy type wanderings will have to wait until later in the day. Vlasta and Mirek are at work and I am happy taking some time alone to go over everything I've seen and done. There's been so much!
On Saturday the 23rd of April we left Prague for the of Budejovice (Bood-eh-yo-vich-eh). This is the birthplace of Budweiser beer. Though the beer is NOTHING like the Budwieser we know in Canada this is a clear lager with a little bit of bite to it. It is very good (okay, what beer really isn't good?) and it is sold everywhere and Tomas drinks the non alcoholic type when we are out as he is driving. Even that is very good too. This town is one of the centres of south Bohemia and has a fantastic town centre, exquisite architechture and NO people. Very strange. We were there on a Saturday of a major holiday and I thought there would be thousands of people. Nope. No one. Strange.
Tomas and Jana were lovely hosts for the visit around and about South Bohemia. We drove past the nuclear plant that supplies 40% of power to the Czech Republic and I am still somewhat freaked out by the sight of the cooling towers. As there is no water here to cool the units (they have two) they use the cooling tower method. I guess with all the alarms of nuclear power and the challenges that have happened in the past when I see a picture like the one below it gives me the creeps. This facility is gigantic and can be seen for hundreds of kilometers away.
For some reason I believe her! The fountain pond was deep and I can only imagine. This also brought to light that Dad know of this area and would have been familiar with it's closeness to Austria. Was this something that he would use later on? Hmmmm
Trebon, as it has been here in the Czech Republic, very hot and with the market and all the things to see Tomas decided it was time for icecream. Okay! I'm there! A little shop at the end of the square served the most delicious frozen treat! As in all small Czech towns there is so much to see and I understand why many people cycle from small place to small place. There are small cycling inns everywhere in this area and many folks are able to help out when a little lost.
Our final destination was the cottage that Vlasta and Tomas' father built on the shores of the Podrezansky lake. This little place was built by hand, with no power tools over a series of years. It was a family and friend project. During the time of communism there was little opportunity to spend on a project of this nature and is was lovingly built to house a family that would escape the rigors of the main city. It's setting is very relaxing and, though there is no water in the lake at present, the pictures that Milena showed me, indicate a fun summer home for family and what both Tomas and Vlasta remember as a great place to grow up. Tomas loves it dearly and not much of it has changed from those early days. There is hydro now but no running water, that comes from the rain or the lake. As there had been little of either lately we relied on the stored rain water in a down spout barrel to "flush" the toilet. Bottled water was used for everything else.
The cottage is a room with a loft above for sleeping. Due to the lovely weather I opted for sleeping under the stars. This was also a way that I could connect with how my father must have slept when he left the Czech Republic. I guess I felt like I was connecting with him at that time. Looking up at the stars all snuggled in a down sleeping bag and Scout bivy bag I was to enjoy a lovely sleep.
There are birds here which I call "cuck-oo" birds. They sound JUST like the cuck-oo clock that The Mother has in the house. Each hour the bird comes out and crows. The bird here does the same thing, just beginning at 5 am. It was the weirdest thing to hear that bird early in the morning and I had a short thought that I was in the house on Yonge Blvd. Trust me it was very strange to hear this in the wild.
Tomas loves to "grill" while at the cottage. We call it BBQ'ing. Either way it's great and the chicken that Jana had prepared was fantastic. So, a nice chair (which I have found out was Tomas' father's, Gustav) and a lovely view, despite no water and a beverage and the birds and the sunshine and ahhhhh it was great. To escape the craziness and heat of the city in the summer this would have been heaven.
On to part 2!
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| Cottage built by Uncle Gustav Kuchar |
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| Tomas on cottage veranda preparing for our next tour |
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