History is not a re-creation in Newfoundland

CapeRace organized 3 days in each place I was staying, St. John's, Heart's Delight and Bonavista. This post is more of the travelling I did around St. John's to see the sights.

I found in the parts of NF that I travelled that history is very rarely "re-created". Meaning, what you see in the places that are historical really are the places. Not rebuilds, not "it used to look like this" but the real thing.

For example in St. John's there are numerous historical places that haven't changed one iota since they were last used for the purpose intended.

Fort Amherst defends "The Narrows", the really narrow inlet to St. John's harbour. This has been used as a defence for centuries and was last used in WWII. The place just looks like time stopped. Same is to be said for the Cabot Tower on Signal Hill. Other than a coat of paint it looks exactly as it did in the 17 and 1800's.

I loved rambling all over these places looking and touching the history. I caught myself so many times saying "I wonder how many people were here before me". I loved getting the views and feeling the ages gone by as I walked stairways and walkways.

Of course there are places that need to be seen just because of where they are. Cape Spear is one of those places. It's the eastern most part of North America. Been to the southern point, been to the western point so now, I've been to the eastern part. It was a cold, cloudy and very windy day but I couldn't help be excited by just being there. To top off the experience I saw a pod of whales. I still get chills thinking about that moment (and it's not because I was remembering the cold). It was so breathtaking to see the number of water spouts emerge and even one tail came up above the surface. This was amazing and I'll never forget it.

The other thing about NF I'll never forget is the people. They were so friendly to me and I found out that you found out so much more information if you just said "hi" to someone at a particular spot. Be warned, the best way to really tick off a NFer is not to say hello when you see them, enter their establishment or walk beside them on the street. You just have to do that!

So now for some pictures that I hope will show a little more clearly the things I've described above.

 This is the range light at Fort Amherst. It is in the same style as the ones in Southampton! Note the rust marks going down the wall. Everything rusts here.

 The remains of the original Fort Amherst battery, cannons were mounted here and it was used in WWII to defend St. John's harbour against Uboat attacks.

 At this point there was a torpedo trap placed across the opening of the narrows. This wire mesh (like a gigantic fishnet) was lowered into the water. The city is in the background. The Atlantic is behind me.

 Cape Spear lighthouse is a typical NF lighthouse with round, stone light in the centre with the square house built around it. The darker windows are "false window" so the living quarters lights would not confuse mariners. This light no longer is an aid to navigation, again, just closed when it wasn't needed and then opened as a historical piece. Dinner ware was left in the cupboards!

 Well, here I am! Cape Spear, Newfoundland.

 Thankful to a very nice gentleman who offered to take my picture. Yup, it was that cold. I have 4 layers on!

 The remains of the 5" elevated guns that were placed at Cape Spear to defend the east coast. These guns were raised and lowered on a cantilever system to "go out of sight" when not firing. The bunker behind it is all concrete and though rusting was in remarkably good shape. The operating Cape Spear light is in the background.

 This is the operating Cape Spear light. It is made of poured concrete and is 10 feet thick at the bottom. There is a sailboat out in the ocean. This is where I saw the whales. Yeah, right, like I could get a picture timed well enough of those guys. You'll just have to trust me.

 A sunny day! Actually on Sunday June 17th the sun came out and I went back to Signal Hill to take some pictures again. This is looking down from Signal hill to the ocean. There is a fishing boat coming into the Narrows. Fort Amherst is just by the white part of the ocean in the middle of the picture and Cape Spear is the far tip of land you see in the top left. Beautiful view. It's from this spot (where I'm standing taking the picture) that Marconi received the first transatlantic radio signal. It was the letter "S". That's all. Not a whole sentence or even a word. Just the letter S. This was in 1901. How far we've come.

 Cabot Tower is the signal tower where those on duty would hoist signal flags to ships on the masts above the tower. The tower itself had windows on all sides where observers could do their work. This was the first type of "early warning" system for the enemies that might want to pillage St. John's.  There was a battery here that defended St. John's.

 The troops (now Army Cadets) still perform the changing of the guard which they've done for 100's of years. Yes, it's still done the same way. St. John's is in the back ground.

This wall is part of the battery that surrounded Signal Hill, Cabot Tower, a hospital, several barracks and officer living quarters. The hospital was where Marconi sent his signal from. This building is gone now. The living conditions were very harsh as the wind blows pretty constantly and there was no shelter (except man made).  Nice on a sunny day though!

 Petty Harbour is one of the oldest fishing villages in Newfoundland. There is sketchy information but it's believed that in early 1700 residence was made by 5 people. This was a very well protected harbour and the boats were all lined up ready to go. The lobster pots, crab pots were all cleaned and stacked ready for use. This is the major fishing now. Cod is caught very seldom which is sad, most of the history of NF is based on that fish. Thankfully the NFers are making their way with the crustaceons.

So after miles of walking on hills, up dales and over lands it was time for me to leave St. John's and head to the Avalon peninsula and Heart's Delight. My next house belonged to the CapeRace founder's grandfather. Neat!
After packing the car, gingerly letting out the parking brake so I wouldn't fly down the steep embankment I was off to see what lay beyond St. John's.

Next to St. John's is another ancient port of Quidi Vidi (pronounced Kitty Vitty) and it was also mile 0 of the Transcanada highway. Well, had to go there, since I'd been to other end in Vancouver!  Though no fanfare, and no where to stop and take a picture I started at mile 0 and headed north west to The Avalon. The terrain changed quickly to long hills, short trees and hundreds (no, thousands of "ponds") that had fresh water in them. The ground may not be useful for a lot but there was a lot of water around. I had no idea that NF was so water logged, I knew it was an island but this much fresh water? Along the Transcanada there were folks who had just stopped, grabbed their fishing pole and were spending the afternoon catching trout. Crazy!

I leave you with one last "only in Newfoundland" thing.
This is an Ugly stick pictured above.
This is an authentic Ugly stick (the one with the boot on the bottom is not authentic in the historical sense.)
This is NOT a mop.
This is not a place to put your used tomato juice can because the blue box is full.
THIS is a musical instrument.

In O'Brien's music shop on Water street in St. John's I received an education, a musical education on how to play the accordian (squeeze box) and Ugly stick. I can honestly tell you I am really, really bad at the squeeze box but the Ugly stick proved to be my instrument. (No comments please).

The mop head sits on the floor to stablize it and to make a bass drum sound when it hits a wooden floor. The handle is a piece of rug wrapped around it so you won't lose your grip, the spokes coming out have beer caps on them (like a tamborine or maracca), the juice can is a drum or cymbal depending on what you it it with.
If you have a ring on or metal watch it sounds like a cymbal, otherwise hitting it sounds like a drum. You bang it on the floor to make the beer caps rattle and bang on the juice can and get quite a rhythm going.

After much practice, thanks to Michael the owner's son, I actually made some noise that worked. I think he was really laughing at me but he thought I was a good sport.
Really though, I'll stick to the spoons, I'm way better at them.

So goodbye to the oldest streets and oldest town in North America as I head for the sights and sounds and smells of the peninsulas!

Cheers