So, with a day to investigate Miramichi and area I set out before 9 am. The touristy type things in this area are few and far between and I needed to learn why. I did discover that Miramichi is actually a series of small hamlets or districts that are all called Miramichi. Divided by the river the different parts are confusing to navigate but I wasn't in a rush to figure anything out and just drove around and followed my nose.
Always fascinated by water I noted that there were few boats on the river, yes, it flows very fast and actually has a tide of about 1 meter but there wasn't a "beach" to be seen. Interesting. I wonder why....
Off to Chatham, which is across the river from where I was staying. This used to be a hub of ships moving timber up and down the river. Now quiet, there is a nice, small park and the main street is a one way with some small shops of no real significance. hmmm interesting.
I drove out of town (don't ask me the direction as I'm TOTALLY turned around here) and found a couple of shorelines that were accessible. I found some jelly fish, dead but really interesting to look at but only one little oyster shell. Hmmmm.
I did see the water tower painted with "Canada's Irish Capital" on it. Now that explains the large number of Irish flags I have seen around the town. I think this might help explain who was here first to settle the area. More to investigate.
Down the road a bit (down river too!) was Middle Island. All for the tourist experience I headed there.
This island, sadly, was the place that town officials told the arriving Irish famine ships to land with their human cargo. Many aboard these ships died during the crossing and the Typhoid and fevers that ran rampid in the holds of the ships' lousy conditions. The townfolk did not want the diseased and dead on their shores. This island acted as a refuge for the treatment of the sick (yes, the doctor died too after all his work, he was only 28!) and burying the dead. There is a beautiful memorial there and an interpretive series of plaques.
The sun had come out by this point and it was hard to imagine the island (about the size of a football field) filled to the edges with very confused and scared Irish escaping the potato famine.
Of note, the hedge is planted and clipped in the shape of a shamrock. Very neat.
By this point I'm hungry. I've been walking shorelines and checking out islands and it's time for LOBSTER in some form.
If you've never experienced a lobster roll then you don't understand why it's important to get one while you're here (unless you don't like lobster or allergic to crustaceans, and that would be sad...)
Anyway, my goal is to experience lobster and shell fish in anyway possible.
I found Muriel's Kitchen down on Richies Wharf which is the little area near the town centre on the shore that is used for gatherings and boat cruises. Muriel makes a great lobster roll and a yummy salad. Lobster rolls are like chicken salad, just with lobster meat. YUM! Traditionally it's in a hot dog bun by I thought I'd like a wrap. Man was it good.
After my refuelling I got the truck refueled and headed north east to the Acadian peninsula. Along here there are some beaches that you can swim from but they were very small. Again, more information to figure out but it's all coming together now.
The town of Miramichi recently lost one of the largest mills in the area. The logging industry has all but left this area. But with the loss of the mills is the gain of the river. The river is cleaner, the wild life is coming back, the food from this part of river is becoming edible again (farther up river it's been fine all along). No one ever swam in the river because of the pollution and the strong current that could sweep you away in the curves. The economy of this area is not so lucky. This explains much of what I've seen and heard. This area is very depressed financially and though the people are very, very friendly there is an underlying feeling of despair. I'll have to see what it's like farther down the coast as I head for the lobster area and salt water beaches.
Oh yeah, tonight, for dinner I had a lobster club house sandwich and home made clam chowder. OOOhhhh YUUUMMMM. Never thought that bacon and lobster would work together but man does it ever...
I leave you with one final picture....
What a great country we live in!!
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